HISAE'S,

Windows partially covered with rice paper to block out the sight of traffic combine with a sleek Formica decor to help create the special brand of Japanese authenticity you'll find at Hisae's. The restaurant offers a full range of moderately priced courses. Raw fish lovers will enjoy the sashimi ($15.40) Ñ succulent slices of beef-red yellowtail tuna, octopus, mackerel, and buttery squid. Combination bento boxes Ñ modeled after the traditional Japanese lunch pails Ñ feature stacked containers each guarding a different treat. The chicken-beef combo ($12.95) is abundantly served with rice, shrimp tempura, and a delicate potato croquette. Try one of Hisae's four varieties of sake, but leave room for their homemade ginger ice cream ($2.20).